Santa Margherita - Italian Riviera

For lunch I went back to the same restaurant, my mind set on getting the same thing as last night. Well, they had gnocchinetti with prawns (microscopic pieces of shrimp) and slices of zucchini. It was good, but no way matching Birreria Centrale in Florence. I'm sitting between an older Italian couple and a young couple from South Africa who are just finishing their holiday.

Well, I ordered a half liter of Vino Rosso Bella Casa .... I was planning on publishing as much as I can on the blog....but a nap sure sounds good about now. But not before my gelato.

I'm having a great time people watching...I had to check to make sure my sunglasses were on cause I guess the others are people watching too (me included.)

We'll, I've cleaned my plate, I'm getting warm, I need to go to the supermarket for water, need to post on the blog, probably snooze a little, and get ready to go out for dinner. The others on the tour are doing a 'cooking class/lesson for $90'...why bother I don't cook anymore...so I'll be on my own.

I do need to talk about some of the people I've met on this trip....(separate entry)

 As a side note, every time I look up a woman, across from me who reminds me of a friend in Baton Rouge, Renia Rose, keeps looking at me....do I really look like that much of a tourist...alone, straw hat, sweating like a bull (they're having a heat wave... It's been in the 90s), typing wildly on my IPad....shit! I could be a food critic..maybe I should ask her if she'd like to read my blog.....but she's probably a tourist too. It's amazing the looks you get when you're alone...but never an offer to pay for dinner...or linner...depending on the time of day according to JP.

 Well, it's 2 o'clock, I've got an Italian couple next to me now...sure wish I had JP here to translate, I need to pull my credit card out of my belly and hit the road back to the hotel before I fall asleep at the table....I'll save that for the terrace.

Rome

Well,I ventured out on my own this afternoon. Took the bus with the quest to find some fantastic deals on Via de Corso, but ended up doing the tourist thing.

I climbed the 124 steps of Santa Maria in Aracoeli..the church so deceiving from the outside and so breathtaking on the inside. Chandeliers everywhere....15 chandeliers around the altar doubled and on each side...12...plus 1 on each side flanking the altar. They have a chapel with a wooden bambino...the story is quite interesting...I've included the story. The soloist and organist were practicing for a wedding....I believe today, since there were blue and white flowers all over and it was beautiful.

I then went through the monument for the Unknown Soldier...they present the history of Italy with uniforms, weapons and flags. I found out during the trip that Italy had been a 'united' country only since the 1800s. Before that they were separate 'stated' with their own monarchs. And it seems that the northern provinces consider the southern areas lazy.

Stopped in another church....one of several hundreds, Chiesa di San Marcello at Corso, where they had one of Bernini's Pieta. The church was not as ornate as the first but still beautiful.

Hungry...again. I decided to go back to Sciarra, near the Trevi Fountain, which we visited last year. Just as great as I remembered? YES! I had the Spaghetti alla Amatricana....pasta with bacon, spicy peppers and...of course...cheese. With the bread, olive oil, balsamic and vino.....as Sergio always says....mamma Mia! The Italians do have a way with food.

The restaurant is empty now....that dead time between lunch and dinner....and since I'm stuffed I now I have to decide if I want to shop or head back to the hotel. It's amazing how they never bring you the bill unless you ask for it....I could have sat here for hours with no problem, but I have to walk off this pasta. So, after four glasses of wine...I think my decision is made for me....unless there's a shop......



Monday.... June

It's 7am and I'm at St. Peter's. Camille's parish priest, Father Diego, has been in Rome studying and she was able to arrange a mass where her sister, Charmaine and Dan, and herPenny and  will renew their vows. Both are celebrating their 50th anniversary. Susan and Dan will also renew their vows...45 years.

The mass was beautiful; the couples exchanged vows, rings, kisses and tears. After mass Fr.  Diego gave us a tour and personal insight on St. Peter's.

Built in the 1700s all the 'paintings' are actually mosaic....on the altars, walls, and ceilings. The only one that is painted is at the altar of The Madonna, which is the altar he chose to do the mass. The sculptures on each side of the cathedral represent those saints that started religious orders, such as St. Theresa. Running the length of the cathedral are inlays marking the length of cathedrals around the world in comparison to St. Peter's. Both Los Angeles and Washington D.C. are included, but are less than half the length of St. Peter's.

Above the altar of St. Peter is a structure that contains the remains of the chair that Peter used; it is called the cathedra, which is where the word cathedral came from.





Last day in Rome.....what to do? Transferred to my new hotel...Victoria.....very nice and the staff was much more friendly...shaking hands, welcoming, big smiles...wonderful. I met Guilo, my new guide, went to my room, checked the stock market...damn!, and then decided to go on the archeo-bus to check out the catacombs.

I decided to get off the bus at the Capuchin monestary and see their catacombs....and I am so glad I did! What a site! The first part is through the museum...mostly pictures of monks, but also some very interesting relics. And then it was on to the catacombs...

WOW!!!!!!! The story goes that the monks hid in the crypts to survive the mass killings that were going on.

The displays are beautiful and so intricate...I only wish I could have visited the other catacombs, but the hop-on hop-off only runs on weekends and they were too far out of the city for me to walk to.

So, instead I figured....eat...lunch at my favorite restaurant...near the Trevi Fountain.. .Sciarra...and even better, the waiter, Bojrn, worked really hard to pick me up......nothing like feathering one's ego.  He kept saying..."I'm off at 3 and have 4 hours...I can show you the real Roma." "Sorry, I'm leaving Rome...heading to Florence"; "how bout I meet you there?" Luckily, the restaurant started getting busy so I was safe...I think....

Well, lunch is done and it's on to bigger and better things, and meeting an entire new group of Americanos..

Florence

We'll I'm at my favorite florentine ristorante....Birreria Centrale...but instead of getting my usual I've gone with bruschetta...again the same but different and gnocchi al pesto. The only problem is I sat outside and I'm right next to a bus stop so everyone is waiting right next to my table!

 I just found out that this restaurant and the one across are owned by brothers.

 Well, the gnocchi isWONDERFUL! I left 2 in the dish so I didn't look like a hog and I SO WANT TO EAT THEM,,,,

 As I'm sitting here, watching the locals and tourists walk by, I think what an insult it must be to the locals the way the tourists dress and act. It's hard to explain but easily evident. I think I really could live here, maybe not in Florence, but nearby, and have a wonderful time for several months, but certainly not in the height of tourist season and I would definitely need to learn Italian....JP Help!

 Well, the gnocchi is almost done...I really shouldn't have eaten that much...and there's not much vino left either....1/2 lite just doesn't seem enough, but it's cheaper than by the glass...so I guess I'll head off to Santa Croci.

 I sure wish Jim was here to enjoy this. When we were here in the 80s we were rookies...boy has time changed things!

 Tonite we head off for dinner with a local family....sure hope they have gnocchi!

 

 

 

 

June 7. 2014

Lesson - if you want to take a train get your ticket a day before. I wanted to go to Bologna but could not get a good time coming back so I headed over to the Duomo because I couldn't remember if I went in last year….. So, so glad because I didn't. Getting there an hour early I was first in line so I was able to get pictures without tourists in them. 

There was a mass going on in one of the small side altars. The priest was precious… short, very bent over and needed help getting around but when I went up for communion he looked up and had the most piercing blue eyes that seemed to smile at you. 

And then I discovered stairs going down. It turns out that the Duomo was built on top of Santa Reparta  that was built in the 5th century, which was built on Roman houses, of which some of the ruins are visible.

Then over to the Baptistery….words can't describe the beauty of the ceiling. I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Isle of Capri

Capri...the jewel of the Mediterranean ..... Left the hotel at 7:45 and boarded the hydro boat for 8:45. Very nice, but I like the Amalfi coast better. Capri is only 7 miles off the coast of Sorrento but feels like a world away...it is very quaint, with a lot of money, and a LOT of tourists.

The ride from the harbour to the center of Capri was enough to take your breath away. When we disembarked the boat we headed into the center of town, walking along a very narrow sidewalk and a street that wasn't much wider. It was amazing to see the service trucks...they are not trucks at all but more like little toy trucks and they use them for everything...from transporting fruits and vegetables, delivering luggage to the hotels, and even bringing handicapped visitors into the town center.

 From the main square, we took the 'non-tourist' route to the Gardens of Augustus, where we had a magnificent view of the isle. It was a non-tourist route because it was narrow, hilly, roaming through little neighborhoods (like a maze), greeting locals along the way. We finally got to a town square, totally out of breath, and then found out we had to go even further. Luckily, it was downhill....for a while at least....(and I forgot that what goes down must go up!). The gardens were nice, the view was wonderful, but definitely not worth the trip.

After the walk that was worse than climbing Mt. Everest, we headed back to the bus and then up to Anacapri to see the beautiful views of the Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius. This is a mama mia ride, just like Sergio said. Just barely enough room for our bus and one of the little 'toy trucks' coming the other way.

We had lunch at Le Arcate, near the bus stop and the center of Anacapri. Real Caprese salad and real pizza......Dee-Licious! After a great lunch we headed to the main square to spend an hour or so.

Next we headed to the harbour for a ride around the isle. We had our own boat, thanks to Sergio, and headed out to bask in the sun and surf.

What a ride!!!!! We cruised up and down the coast, viewing grottoes that appeared, it seemed, around every bend. We saw Sophia Loren's home, Gina Lollobrigida's and many other beautiful homes. It's amazing how the homes are built right into the side of the mountains.

Well, it's back to Sorrento and more shopping, eating, and sightseeing.

Orvieto

May, 2014

Orvieto,  like other medieval villages, is built on the top of the mountain. To reach the village we took a cable car to get up the mountain and then a VERY CROWDED bus to get to the town.

Orvieto is a very small village but the cathedral, which was started in the 1200s, is huge by comparison.  The story goes that a traveling priest was questioning his faith and the truth of transubstantiation when one day while saying mass when he broke the host, blood dripped from the host. The cloth is displayed in the cathedral.

There were only a few streets to walk, but I am constantly amazed at the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the people of the dark and middle ages. Amazing construction and architecture, churches towering into the sky and most could not even read.

After enjoying some gelato it was time to get back on the bus and head to Sorrento. 

P.S. Orvieto Classico is the white wine made in the area…. Really good for a white wine… light and very refreshing.

I'M BACK IN ORVIETO!!!!
June 6, 2014

We're heading towards Florence with a stop at Orvieto. Now, I was just here 2 weeks ago, but, traveling with an open mind....maybe this will be different. MOST DEFINITELY!!

 Since I was just here, I decided to take the road less traveled and I am so glad I did. There were so many little nooks and tiny alleys and every one offered something new. There was no one else on the streets I chose to travel and it was wonderful. I came across a small trattoria, La Mezza Luna, but it was just noon and the gentleman told me 10 minuto. So I tried to find my way back to a small shop that had a shoulder bag that I wanted and got entirely lost. Eventually, I did find my way and so glad I did.

I ordered bruschetta and pasta. If this a first course, I hate to see the secondi piatti. The pasta was huge and delicious.

1:10 and the place is filling with locals. This was definitely the place to go.

God! They know how to cook pasta!!!!

 it really does pay to return to the same place.... you feel more comfortable exploring the out of the way places.... guess I gotta come back again.

Siena

Siena, a medieval walled city built on three ridges is beautiful. The town hall tower, 334feet tall, is in the central square, which is surrounded by palaces from the 12th to 16th century.

Sienna is divided into 17 districts, each designated by an animal, forest, shell, or tower.  We were in the Oca (goose) district. Each district marks their boundary with this figure.

The biggest holiday is the Palo Horse Race, which is performed in the center square. The horses and riders race around the square 4 times.... but it's not a level square... it's more like a bowl so it can be quite difficult. As a matter of fact, many riders, who ride bareback, fall off.... but it doesn't matter... it's the horse that matters... and if it crosses the finish line, with or without it's rider... it's the winner!

No autos are allowed in the city center, so its wonderful to just stroll and take in all the sites and sounds.

The cathedral was beautiful, with unbelievable inlaid figures and designs on the floor!!!!! The pulpit was huge and so intricately carved. In the cathedral is the Piccolomini Library adorned with beautiful frescos.

We had a delicious lunch at Ristorante LaFinestra...a light lunch as Sergio puts it.... bread, salad, pasta, and then the main dish, plus dessert.... light my big b#%&!!!!! But it certainly delicious... as usual.

Cortona

As we traveled to the village of Cortona, again located on the top of the mountain, we traveled through the countryside covered with vineyards and olive trees. Even the smallest house has its own vineyard and each area has its own wine. As we got to the top of the mountain the view of the valley was breathtaking.

 The old town was similar to Pienza but not as pretty. It did have a lot of hidden alleyways that were decorated with flowers, or small shops and trattorias….but nowhere could you find a street that wasn't steep… going up or down.

Susan, Dan and I checked out the restaurants…. We needed to find spaghetti with meat sauce for Susan and finally settled on an outdoor café, run by a cute older woman who took the orders, delivered them, and probably cooked them too. Every place we have eaten it was always homemade pasta….. So delicious!!!

 We stopped for cappuccino and while Dan was drinking mine I checked out a couple of the leather stores for a purse to go with my new jacket….. Well, of course, I found one!

 We had our farewell dinner tonite at the hotel with entertainment, fresh ravioli, suckling pig and dessert. Sergio, our tour director, was singing…. What a beautiful voice!

and now its time too pack and head south to Sorrento.

 

 

 

Pienza

Florence

It was back to Florence today... it felt like going home. It's wonderful to go to a foreign city and know your way around, which shops to visit, where to eat, and short cuts. I decided to go to the Uffizi museum and enjoy the sculptures and paintings.

I needed... needed?...a leather jacket... couldn't decide on a short one or a 3/4....finally decided on the short one... besides, I'll be back in a couple of weeks so I can always get the other one.

On the way back we stopped at Piazza Michelangelo to enjoy the wonderful view of Florence.

Radicofano

We had a speaker this morning who spoke about the Medici family who ruled the Tuscany region for years. Owning so much land, they became wealthy merchants, trading on leather, farming, and loans, with interest rates at 200%. Eventually they made themselves "royals" even though there was no royal blood in the family. They eventually died out, the last male heir being gay.

We traveled about an hour out from our hotel to Radicofano, a village located on a ridge overlooking the valley that was built in the 1100s-1200s. Driving up out of the valley you approach a magnificent walled city that would never have to worry about attack as their location had a perfect view of the valley.

Our first stop was San Pietro Church built on the 1200s. Nothing special on the outside, just brick, like the rest of the town. Walk inside and, even though it's small, you marvel at the fact that they could build something like this in medieval times.

We continued walking through the village, with a population of about 800, narrow lanes weaving their way around the village.

We stopped at a small bakery and sampled pizza.... delicious and yet all it had on it was tomato and basil. At the next square a local greeted us with samples of olive oil soaked bread and truffle salsa..... UNBELIEVABLE!!!




After leaving  the village we stopped at a local cheese manufacturer. Giuseppe was wonderful and showed us how they made cheese..... pecorino... out of 100 kilos of sheep milk they get 20 kilos of cheese. They then reprocess the milk and would you believe... that's how they get ricotta... about 10 kilos. The rest goes back to the sheep for food.

We then went into a room for cheese tasting. We had 8 different cheeses, from a few weeks old to the more mature cheeses. From a mild cheese to aged ricotta with peppercorns, pecorino with chile peppers, and some that were layered with: hay, walnut leaves, and one with grapes. The flavors were unbelievable ..one being  better than the next. We also had wonderful bread, wine, and the best salami and prosciutto I've ever tasted.

I really could have stayed there for a week but I knew we were heading to Florence tomorrow so it was "Ciao Giuseppe" and on to another adventure.

Chianciano

A short ride from Roma and we arrive in Chianciano. A beautiful area of Tuscany, in a valley and known for its mineral springs, we'll be here for 7 days before heading south to Sorrento.

Day 1 - Roma

After an uneventful flight over, arrived in Rome around 8am. Passport Control was another story. Two flights arriving at the same time brings together 400+ anxious, over tired travelers trying to get through to FOUR agents….. What a mess and, of course, you always get the one traveler, I  won't mention that she's a woman, pushing her bag in front of her to get ahead. After an hour, finally got up to the most adorable looking man who stamped my passport….. WELCOME TO ROMA.

Traffic was typical… scooters dashing between lanes, stop and go, unnecessary traffic lights…. But finally got to the hotel. As usual Grand Circle does a great job, the only problem was that all the sites are on the other side of the city.

After meeting Sergio, our tour director, we went on a little excursion of the area, where Sergio pointed out a couple of places to eat. We headed over to a daily market with fresh fruits and vegetables that would make any farmer jealous. We finally settled on a place to eat….Pasquarelli's on Via Po, where I had a salami panini.

 

Headed back to the room and crashed for 3 hours.

Dinner was at Hysteria Po where I had a delicious pasta dish with pistachio pesto, prawns, and tomatoes along with a half bottle of wine o shared with Cindy.

 Got back to the hotel and needed something sweet, so I went across the street to a small restaurant, no English spoken here, and had tea and cheesecake.

 Crashed about 10:30, sweet dreams dancing in my head of wonderful food, new friends, great sights, and handsome Italian men. Ah, Italy……

ROMA

After a wonderful morning at St. Peter's Betty and I headed over to the hop-on hop-off bus. Anna wanted to do her own thing.

The first thing we did was ride the entire route, just to regain our strength after the 700 steps.

We got off to see The Pantheon and Piazza Navona, but first found a restaurant for lunch in a quaint little square. We sat outside, serenaded by a group of musicians and enjoyed...pasta...of course.

We then headed out to find our way, walking along the cobblestone streets and then we turn a corner and BAM!!! smacked in the face with the more beautiful piazza we've seen...Piazza Navona and sitting in the middle a beautiful fountain...Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651). We strolled along the piazza, again cluttered with hawkers, and then decided to find the Pantheon.

Just a few blocks away, we found it, and it too was breathtaking. It has been used as a church since the 7th century.

BARCELONA, SPAIN

....copied from my 'other blog' Original travel date...November 24, 2013

 Great flight, a little bumpy but nothing too bad… Only problem was a four hour layover. And when you can't sleep on the plane it really hurts trying to stay awake in an airline lounge with businessmen all over the place. But I made it…

Barcelona is beautiful! Just flying in the city looks gorgeous with the tan rooftops, sitting on the Mediterranean Sea, beautiful blue water, and oh so adorable men! I wasn't able to explore too much as we had a briefing at 3 o'clock. And I got in around 430 and we took a stroll down the posh Pg. De Gracia with all the great designers but we'll wait till Thursday night because they're having a open party along the boulevard. All the stores will be open serving free kava and showing off their beautiful wares.

Our tour director, Paloma, suggested a couple of restaurants that we can try that are frequented by the locals. We went to a tapas bar, Catalina, and it was really good. I should've taken some pictures but we were too hungry and devoured the cannelloni and mushrooms before I even had a chance to pull the iPad out.

Has Anna and I were strolling along the boulevard, we passed a couple of Gaudily buildings. Unusual architecture… It reminded me of Vienna with the Kunderwassen buildings.

We start off early tomorrow morning at 9 AM to do the city tour and then will be able to explore on our own in the afternoon. I'm really looking forward to getting down to the harbour and actually see and maybe even put my toes in the Mediterranean Sea.

It's been a long day even though it's only 8:30 PM I've been up for 36 hours and am ready for bed see you tomorrow.