LAST DAY IN ROMA

I can't believe that it really ending. Our last day in Europe!

We got up early, deciding that we would pay the 14E to get into St Peter's. Well, we got there around 8:30 and....no line!! We walked right in. I forgot how beautiful it is. Betty was astounded. As you walk through your looking from right to left to up to down, across, around corners. Everything is huge...supersized and wonderful.

Betty had to get holy water for her sister and the non-Catholic that she is found the place to get it (of course you had to buy the bottle for 3.50E...the water is free).  When we were there yesterday and couldn't get in, Betty got a  teen to reach into a fountain to get the water...she said 'well, it is from the Vatican', but now she's happy...she got the real thing.

After we finished satisfying our curiosity we headed to the 'breakroom'. On the way in there was a sign 'Cupola 7E for elevator'. Hey! lets do it!!! How bad can it be...there's an elevator. Yeah, right, and the Church preaches to tell the truth....the elevator went to the bottom of the dome. It was wonderful! You are looking down on the entire basilica...the main altar, side altars, everything. And then, we found out to get to the top you have to climb the stairs. Well, how many could there be? 50, 100? It might be a little hard, but we can do it! Yes we can!! After making at least 10 stops...kids flying by us as we sit huffing and puffing...we get to the top!!!! What a view!!! All of Rome. We walked around and around and around and then finally decided we should head down....should be easier...well maybe a little...but I started counting the steps....350 of them...we climbed 700 steps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Certainly a record for me.

By the time we got down we had to 'break' again and were dying of thirst, but we made it....and so proud of ourselves, too.

Now it's time to see the rest of the sites before we have to leave, so we head over to the hop-on hop-off bus.

THE VATICAN

Wednesday and it’s religion day. We have a tour booked this morning for the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s.

Taxi cost 20E, but 4E was my fault since I left my credit cards and money in the room and we had to backtrack. But  we got there with more than enough time to spare, only to find out that we would not be going to St Peter’s because on Wednesday Pope Benedict has audiences with the public and it would not open until 12-1.

I had been to the Sistine Chapel, but not the Museum…which is a MUST SEE. It goes on forever and each room is more magnificent than the previous one. Our guide, Damieno, was great and explained all the little things that you would have missed if you were doing it on your own. The best, of course, was saved to the last…the four rooms painted by Raphael. Entire walls, plus the ceilings, filled with splendid frescoes.

And then, the mother of all frescoes, the Sistine Chapel. No pictures allowed, and yet the Orientals kept trying, even with the guards repeating ‘no pictures, silence’. As the guide pointed out, on the beginning end of the ceiling the figures are smaller than at the other end. Michelangelo realized that when viewing from the floor the figures were too small and as the fresco progressed, the figures were enlarged. Words can’t explain the feeling of gazing upon this masterpiece.

After the tour, we went across the street to a café to get something to eat. Betty had made the entire tour and was feeling pretty good. She felt even better after she got her gelato. She wanted a cherry gelato and got what looked like an original Picasso. Ice cream, decorated with cookies, fruit, more cookies and more fruit. Shocker…the ‘small gelato’ that she ordered was 12E. I ordered a pizza (about 2 slices) and a coke…21E. My coke, because it was not ‘take away’ was 6E (would have been 3E if ‘take away’).

Finally, we walked along the wall to St Peter’s, since it was after 1 and we thought we could get in. SHOCKER!!! The line, at least 5 wide, wrapped around the entire square; where did they all come from???? Anna decided to head across the river to see St Angelo Castle while Betty and I tried to figure out where to get the hop-on, hop-off bus.

Note:  I have never seen so many hawkers in one place…Indians selling scarves, key rings, sunglasses, Vatican souvenirs, squealing slime balls, icons, handbags, wooden toys….we even saw a guy selling ‘carrot’ carvings….yep, designs made with carrots.

Anyway, we found a place that had information about the bus, but also had ‘skip the line’ tickets to St Peter’s for 14E. We’ll have to do that tomorrow, since they were out of tickets for the day. So we hopped on the bus and went around the city, seeing the sights and determining which ones we’ll hit tomorrow.

Around 5 we headed over to the Trevi Fountain, to toss our coins in to assure we’ll be back in Rome, and again, got lost. Came to an intersection and didn’t know which was to go. There on the corner was a souvenir shop the a sign in the door ‘directions to customers only’. Well, I needed to get a plate from Rome, so I went in; grumpy Italian couldn’t find the one I wanted, but when I went to leave he changed his tune. After I paid 5E (for the plate, but also to get directions) I asked him for a good place to eat in the neighborhood. ‘Italian?’ he asked. Well, yeah. He goes on to tell me everything in the neighborhood is frozen…you want to go down  2 blocks on the right…only good Italian food around and fresh. ‘Grazie, grazie’ I said and ‘by the way, where’s the fountain?’ Duh, it was at the end of the block!!!

Got to the fountain….hundreds of people and loads of hawkers. Funny, we were standing there and all of a sudden, they all grabbed their stuff and went running off. Turns out if a cop starts heading their way, they scatter.

We finally made our way down to the fountain, took some pix, tossed our coins, and headed to the ‘only real Italian restaurant in the neighborhood’.

We get there, only 2 tables occupied outside and a man putting out glasses…not even a hello or anything. We go in, only 1 table occupied. We’re wondering did we make a mistake? Betty goes over to the guy and asks if his pasta is fresh…he looks at her like she has two heads, but tells her yes. We sit down, order, and get the best dinner we’ve had so far in Rome. Really good.

Silvio finally warmed up and was joking around with us, asked where we’re from, and tells us he has a cousin in Florida who has a restaurant in Longwood. He pulls it up on his phone and there, in the Orlando area, is Enzo’s on the Lake, Longwood, with a great review. Guess where I’m going when I get home!

The dessert, again, torte ciocholato, was fabulous. On our way out, I went to say ciao to Silvio and even got a 2 cheek kiss!!!!!

Onward and upward! Tomorrow the final sweep of the city and the sites we missed today and then….home

ROME

We have finally arrived at our last stop...Rome. We got in around 5 on Monday and the ride to the hotel brought us past many historic sites…it brought back memories from when Jim and I were here many years ago.

We took a walk over to the Spanish Steps and then tried to find our way back to the hotel which was a joke. It took us over an hour to do a 15 minute walk….we just kept getting lost. Finally, Betty took over and got us there in minutes. We went to a restaurant around the corner, Ceasarius, which the taxi driver had recommended….good pasta, better desserts.  Time to crash and get ready for the Coliseum tomorrow.

Standing magnificently in the middle of modern day Rome and all its traffic, the Coliseum stands as a tribute to the golden age of the ancient Romans. Even though there is repair and reconstruction going on, it still looks awesome. We had a very good guide who had such a love of the architecture and history it really made you feel that you were there in the beginning.

After the Coliseum we headed over to the Forum, exploring the ruins….even got to see the home of the vestal virgins. Betty and I found a place that would be perfect for us. It was a rough day for Betty with all the climbing and uneven cobblestones, but she’s a trooper and got through the day. We went to a restaurant right next to the hotel…again.. good food, great desserts. P>S> I have never consumed so much wine in a day! But it’s red so it’s good for my heart.

Tomorrow, the Vatican.

POMPEII

In order to get to Pompeii you have to take a train from Sorrento. Sixteen stops later we were there. We were to meet our guide at 9:30, but since we had no idea where we were going, we made sure we got there early. Well, the sun was shining and it looked like a great day ahead, but when we got off the train it was too chilly for just a light sweater, so Jennifer, you got yourself a white ITALIA sweatshirt.

We walked across the street and walked around the main entrance to the city. Realizing that this magnificent city was built over 2000 years ago, you are amazed at the technology and acumen of these people so long ago. They had drainage, building techniques used to this day, buildings that are situated so that they make full use of the sun and its power, the rain so that they can use it for all their needs, and it just goes on and on. As we walked along the streets, running north and south and east and west, you could see the ruts in the stones from the wheels of the carts that were used in the city. The main street consisted of shops; you could still see the ovens from the bakery and the water and wine jugs in the shops, as well as the grooves where the sliding doors were situated. 

Our guide told us that the Romans believed in three things: food, wine and sex. All around you can see in their frescoes the phallus, sexual scenes, and the houses are built around the center courtyard and all rooms flow into it; the dining room being the main public room where so much was done.

We headed down the street, which curved to the left where the prostitutes lived. Prostitution was normal during the time and since many of the sailors who came into Pompeii could not read, there were pictures which showed different positions...so when a sailor came into the house he would just look at the pictures over the door and choose which position he wanted. It was amazing to see the stone beds still in the rooms, along with the colored frescoes over the doors indicating different positions.

We had arranged a private tour, so it was just the 3 of us and what a wonderful experience. Leli had so many great stories about the people, their way of life, about their city and how they must have felt when Vesuvius erupted. We explored the grounds for three hours and did not see it all. Plus, only about 25% has been excavated. One can only imagine what is still buried under 20+ feet of earth. He told us that the government just doesn’t have the money and even though the excavation would create many jobs, they just aren’t interested.

One thing I found very interesting is that the tourists are allowed to walk on the marble floors, able to enter buildings, touch the walls, see the frescoes up close, really get the feel of Pompeii. It was heartbreaking to see on the walls tourists who had to include themselves in the history of Pompeii by carving their names, to forever desecrate this beautiful city.

After lunch we headed over to Herculaneum, on the west side of Vesuvius. Herculaneum was a ‘resort’ town, where the people of Pompeii came to relax. It was much smaller than Pompeii, but more intact. There is much more to excavate, but the current town sits on top of it and the government will not displace the families in the area. The reason that it is still intact is that it was covered with the ash from the volcano, whereas Pompeii was hit with the pyroclastic blast which was much more destructive.  There were approximately 300 bodies found, where at Pompeii the number is inclusive because of instantaneous incineration caused by the blast.

From wikipedia:  It is also famous as one of the few ancient cities that can now be seen in almost its original splendour, because unlike Pompeii, its burial was so deep as to ensure building's upper storeys remained intact, and the hotter ash preserved wooden household objects (beds, doors etc.) and even food. Moreover Herculaneum was a wealthier town than Pompeii with an extraordinary density of fine houses, with far more lavish use of coloured marble cladding. The discovery in recent years of some 300 skeletons along the sea shore came as a surprise since it was known that the town itself had been largely evacuated.

There is so much more about these two cities to be told; Leli recommended a book by Robvert Harris – Pompeii, which he said is a must-read.

THE ROAD TO NAPOLI

Well, we get into Napoli from Florence, go down to the other end of the promenade to deposit our luggage, since we packed for 2 nights earlier.this morning. Well, surprise, surprise…the people were on strike and we had no place to drop 6 large suitcases (plus 4 small bags/backpacks)

Take a cab – 200E

Rent a cheap hotel and just leave the luggage – not a good idea

Take the train to Sorrento…with 9 bags

Or

Rent a car – GREAT IDEA!!!! Stick shift (haven’t done that in 30 years), crazy Italian drivers, crazier Italian scooters….I must be crazy!!!!

But there was no other option. So we head to Sorrento by car. The National Car agent told us just take the A3 to Sorrento….48km….no problem. Well, maybe not for him. We made one wrong turn after another and the ‘service’ light lit up and wouldn’t go our and had a message popping up in Italian about the motor and we’re smelling smoke and just kept driving.  There were some close calls, the streets being so narrow, but we made it. Betty now calls me ‘Fast Mama’ and ‘Danica’.

Well, the Amalfi Coast is beautiful. A long, winding road, up, down, around curves, twists and turns and everyone is better than the last. Even though it was only 48KM, it took us close to 2 hours with all of the wrong turns, but we finally got to Carlton Hotel International. I thought the bellhop was going to die when he saw all the suitcases, but he took it in stride and got them all to our room.

The view is fantastic. You can see all of the Amalfi coast, Capri, and the sea goes on forever.

I just can’t get over how rude the Italians are. They push, shove, never say ‘excuse me’ and then curse at you if you tell them ‘no’. I have never seen so many street hawkers pushing their wares; and they just keep coming back!

We had a nice dinner at Tasso, one of the hundreds of ristorantes in Sorrento, drank a lot of vino and headed back for the night.

Pompeii tomorrow…..

HOTEL BIGALLO IN FIRENZE

We were so excited when we saw our hotel. Even though the entrance was on the side, it faced the Duoma, which is always a wonderful site.

Now, keep in mind, I had 2 big bags (I packed my carry-on inside one) and have a canvas backpack, plus a small pack, Betty had a huge leopard bag chock full and a carry-on plus a huge purse and Anna had her 2 red bags.

Well, there were 2 steps, a landing, four steps and the elevator.....an elevator that you opened the outer door to get in and when you push the button an inner door closes and then the outer and then you get whiplash as you 'jerk' upwards. But what a VIEW!

Five trips later, we were in our room, on the fourth floor and it turns out that it's a loft!!! Not only is it a loft, but the bathroom is up the flight of stairs instead of the main floor. Two beds up, one down. But remember...we have a VIEW!

Well, after a day walking in Firenze and then the next day we went to Pisa, Betty's knees were acting up and her ankles were swollen. So since it was hard to mount the steps, she slept downstairs and had a empty coke cup that she could use if necessary. But OH!!! the VIEW!!!!!

Betty asked the desk....another story...I thought when you worked in the hospitality industry you are pleasant and outgoing....Well not at Hotel Bigallo...luckily they made eye contact, but smile, buon giourno, anything...not unless you said it first!  Anyway, Betty told them we needed a handicapped room since we were 'old ladies' and couldn't do the stairs. Luckily a room would be available the next day and the maid would move the bags...poor little maid. Will we lose our VIEW? Nope, still there just 10 feet lower.

We now have a room on the third floor (where the reception desk is) and we are right next to the breakfast room....oh yes, breakfast is included (rolls, croissants, ham, cheese, yogurt and coffee that was like mud. Well, they set the room for breakfast at 11pm...dishes banging, silverware clanging, the whole thing.

Oh, did I mention that the Duomo's bells go off at 7am, 7:15, 7:30 and 7:45...very nice the first time you hear them, after that you want to kill the bell ringer, but it's automatic!!!! oh, but what a VIEW!!!!!!

Well our new room has a special bathroom. The show has a 2" lip (probably smaller, but I'll give it the benefit of the doubt) but it doesn't drain too well so when you take a shower for longer than 3 minutes, when you open the door,yep, water goes all over!~! Not only that, but when you close the side, you can't sit on the toilet. When I'm able to post pictures, you'll see what I'm talking about....BUT THE VIEW.....

They never dusted (Fran would have loved this hotel!) but that was ok; I was cutting my nails (which have grown so long) but when I cut they were flying all over so I did it out the window, trying to hit someone below. Now why would I do that?  Because the fools are out there at 2 a.m. singing!!!!! But remember....we have a great VIEW!!!!

There was no ice in the hotel...when Betty's knees were swollen, the desk had to go to the hotel next door and came back with a pack (you know the blue hard kind) and at night they lock you in.

One night Betty couldn't sleep so she decided to go out to have a smoke. Now this is 3:30 a.m. She goes into the reception desk and the clerk was sleeping on the sofa....with a blanket and  pillow.  Betty darn near gave him a heartattack. She couldn't get out because the downstairs door was closed, so she had to go back up and ask and he told her to push the red button. 'How do I get back in' she asked. 'Don't close the door!' he replied. But THE VIEW!!!!

Our final morning, well, somehow or other the luggage had babies and we were now up to 9 pieces. It took us a half-hour to get it all down. FYI - Betty and I bought backpacks so that we could relieve some of the heaviness of our bags, but it didn't work and the backpacks are now full!!!!

On her way out the manager asked Betty how we enjoyed out stay. Betty said, 'I didn't'. 'Why' she asked and, if you know Betty, she ripped her another one.

BUT, OH, THE VIEW!!!!

FIRENZE - APRIL 6, 2013

Looks like I missed one of the prettier cities we've been to....Firenzie. We arrived Monday morning at 10....I was hoping to catch up with JP and Tommy, but found out that he lived about 30 minutes out of Florence and they were going to the beach. It seems that Easter Monday is a big holiday for family time. I realize I was being selfish because I wanted JP to take some stuff home, but I also had gifts for Tommy and his family.

I want to tell you about our hotel, but I'll save that for an individual blog.

Anyway, we spent the day walking and visited the sites of the city. We have a beautiful view from our room...the Duomo in all its glory is right across the street (this was the only benefit of the hotel). It's a magnificent site, but I was a little disappointed in the interior...not nearly as decorative as the others, but a site nonetheless.




We headed over to the square to see the statues. I always thought, based on my own experience, that Italian men were built like stallions, but the figures we saw were like little boys. I zoomed in on one statue...you can see there is no correlation from the hand to the jewels. 

We also reveled in the fact that it was men embracing men, men standing over children....well just look at the pictures and you'll know what I mean. 





We headed over the bridge and the River Arno on our way to Boboli Gardens....what a magnificent (I know I keep using that word but it's the only way to describe this country and its treasures) view of Firenzie. After I finished taking pictures at the summit I realized I left my tote bag in the cab; luckily it just had postcards and a scarf I bought that morning, but it was still a disappointing loss.




Anna headed off in a different direction, so Betty and I decided to head back to the hotel. Betty was in the lead and kept saying 'I can see the Duomo' and we kept walking and walking and walking. She used the excuse that the town had swallowed the Duomo, because she couldn't see the dome. We eventually made it back to the room...Anna beat us!!!!






Dinner was at a cafeteria....not your usual....they had pasta dishes and chicken and more...they heated up your selection and you sat and enjoyed (?) your dinner.

Tomorrow...Pisa.

BETTY'S BETTER

Betty was feeling a little better this morning and insisted on going to Venice. Her cough sounds like it's breaking up, although I'm starting with a sore throat...again.

Headed out for Venice. We've become old pros with the trains and chasing away the beggars. The first half hour of the trip was going through tunnels, but upon exiting we saw the most verdant green hillsides dotted with quaint little villages.

After about an hour we hit the flats, still green as ever. A 2 hour trip, we need to get to the tour site 30 minutes before....we might be cutting it close.

Arrived in Venice at 1035 and had to be at the Doge's Palace by 11 for the tour. Well we were told that it was a 10 minute water bus ride or a 20 mi ite. Since the li e was so long for the bus,we opted to walk......45 minutes later we walked panting into the ticket office. It was the most horrendous walk, up and down bridges, ducking in and out of alleys and dead ends....I felt sorry for Betty but she was a trooper!

We took the tour which included the 'hidden rooms' of the Palace and got the history and workings of the justice system in Venice in the 13-17th century, including a tour of the prison cells, torture area, and Casanova's cell and the story of how he escaped along with a monk in a neighboring cell. We crossed the Bridge of Sighs...for my grandsons...the bridge was the walkway inside the place that led prisoners from their trial room to their cell and as they walked through the enclosed bridge would look out the barred windows and sigh as they looked at their beloved Venice.

After the tour we headed to one of the side streets for lunch and then onto St. Mark's Square to climb the bell tower and get a fantastic view of Venice and then through the cathedral. ..can't understand why they wouldn't allow pictures....but it did t matter....I got 'em.

After some shopping we headed back to the station via the water bus and then stopped in a cafe for dessert and coffee. The waiters were typical Italians flirting left and right. Mario asked where we were from and then told us he had a cousin in Florida. Betty asked him where his cousin lived In Florida but he said he didn't know. Betty said 'well we know where our cousins live, Sometimes we even marry them'. That stopped him dead in his tracks. He thought he was really macho...his shirt was 2 sizes too small...the buttons were ready to pop, but we had some good laughs and killed an hour waiting for the train back to Florence.

It's been 30 years since I've been to Venice but its still a wonderful place to visit..I just wouldn't want to live there.

Tomorrow ... Bologna...goodnight.

FIRSTS FOR BETTY..THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY

Well, Betty has had a lot of firsts on this trip....first time traveling alone, first overseas flight, lost luggage, first argument with shuttle service, first underground, train ride, and now....first ambulance ride and hospital visit.

Yes....she certainly does know how to have a European adventure. She had been having some swelling in her ankles and her knees were hurting. This began in Switzerland and got worse. We got some fluid pills, but last night she was having a hard time breathing. She said she couldn't even call out for us because of lack of breath. When I got up at 7, I went across the street where they have an ambulance dispatch and was able to find someone who spoke English. He told me to call 118 and the ambulance would come with a doctor.

NOTE....be sure to know how to get in touch with Emergency Services in a foreign country. Also, put your address and phone number in your passport as they will want that info, along with your passport. And most importantly....insurance.

Long story short, 5 hours later still at the hospital, waiting for results of chest ex ray and EKG. They've taken 9 vials of blood, she's had 3 breathing treatments, and we're waiting. Fluid's gone down a bit....

Finally got out...2pm, four prescriptions and 240euro later, we headed to the pharmacy, 95euro and then some pizza on the piazza. Betty was a real trooper, especially after getting stuck twice ...they were trying to get to an artery to check on her oxygen level.

Back to the room for some rest and relaxation. I contacted Grey Line about the tour we missed to Siena and they were nice enough to refund the $76, but I had to go back to the station to get it. On the way I must have passed 15 little vendors selling their wares. Since my zipper broke on my tote I needed to get another BAG...(after all I am the bag lady). Found one near the station and he wanted 15euro, but the lining inside one compartment was ripped away from the zipper so I told him no. He went down to 10E but I told him my other broke in a 2 week period...he dropped it to 5.....hey. Why not!

Anna and I went out for dinner while Betty relaxed. Tried to take her to the restaurant we found the night before, but all the tables were taken. Lucky for us because we wentto one down the street...Restaurant Paoli and it was wonderful. Freshly made pasta and a dessert tray to die for. It had pears the size of small pineapples dripping I syrup, cakes, fruit, and the best was profiteroles with chant illy cream filling and totally doused with dark chocolate sauce....HEAVEN!!!!!

On to Venezia tomorrow.

MILANO

Milano....TALK ABOUT A CHURCH....

We arrived in Milano about 5 and. Went right to the hotel. Beautiful place, luxurious room and street cars....ALL NIGHT LONG....SCREECHING around the corner every 5 minutes all through the night...and we were on the 5th floor.

Walked to a little restaurant (most were closed it being the night before Easter) and found... (petit). All whitewashed tables and chairs and the entire restaurant lit by candles. They asked if we had reservations...the place was empty ( it was around 7)..chuckle, chuckle, and we said no. Well, by the time we finished the place was full?

Again, no rush at all. Betty and I had tagletella with red shrimp....Betty asked what red shrimp were and the guy said....fish. Chuckle, chuckle...she still ordered it and it was delicious. Anna had onion soup. 

We limped back to the hotel and crashed!

Easter morning and we took the underground, walked up the steps and the site took our breath away. The cathedral engulfed the entire square. MAGNIFICENT . We couldn't get to the front since mass was going on, but between the magnificence and the incense, you really felt like you were in another realm. 

 After exploring the cathedral, we headed towards a beautiful promenade and strolled along with thousands of others. 

Stopped at a cafe for lunch...we're really not eating that much...we're just looking for clean bathrooms. We were going to share 2 pizzas but were told that we could not share but needed to order 3 plates...so 2 pizzas and bruschetta did it. Italian Ham and cheese pizza was great! 

We then took the underground to the Castella but by the time we got there I crashed, sat on a bench, and told them to go. 

Onward and upward, we decided to head over to Santa Maria de Gracie to see the Last Supper. Interesting story. 

While most frescos are painted on wet plaster, which requires the artist to work quickly, since once the plaster dries nothing can be done....but the paint is set in the plaster so it does not fade. The Last Supper was done on dry plaster, so, by the time he finished his greatest work it started to peel and flake off. He knew he wanted to take his time with form and shadow which is why he elected to do the dry route, but by doing so he created much more detail in facial expression and body language.

Only 30 people are allowed in at a time, and we had to go through 3 pressure locks before we got into the room. By allowing small groups with a limited time....15 minutes...they protect the painting for a longer period of time. 

It was awesome to stand there and look at a masterpiece without having to fight the crowds.

Headed back to the square for dinner and stopped in another restaurant along the promenade. Of course, they put you in the window, so that it looks like the place is full. Well, we were a little slap-happy and I told Betty that when people walked by (at least 50% will look at your plate) SO we covered our dishes with our hands everytime someone looked in. We were laughing so hard even the maitre  'd was laughing.

Then I decided to wave at people walking by who looked. Sure enough, the Orientals always waved back. We were going to take pictures of them taking pictures, but didn't have time as we stalled as much as possible in the restaurant.

Headed back to the hotel; we'll be off to Firenze...